Post by morgan on Dec 18, 2005 10:47:14 GMT -5
Hey Curt,
Since you've started to read Koehler, a coupla ideas:
Although I really admire and utilize Koehler for his systematic approach, his strategy of forcing the dog into decision making can backfire, so be watchful and flexible. He's at his best on distraction training and the force fetch. The hidden dowel blind as a go out can backfire. The pressure drop can create unneeded resistance.
Remember that Koehler called the pinch/prong collar a "finishing" tool. I use mine with my hands (and the collar) locked at my belt buckle so that the dog administers his own corrections. I NEVER use it until the dog clearly and completely understands body position. You have no need for a dog who avoids discomfort; you need a dog who understands that his head should be next to your knee. Don't inadvertently teach some behavior that you'll spend months unteaching.
Don't be afraid to lure into position. My advice is always the advice of a fool, but I think the business of gooood fuss is bogus. You need to mark correct behavior and fix incorrect. You need to decide how much successive approximation you'll mark as right for this session. Picking up on Maugh's reference to marking behavior I'll give you an example:
When we bring a retriever to the "line" to mark he needs to look out. A dog with "look up" attention needs another cue. If you tell the dog to "mark" and he looks out you watch his head. When he looks left, you say noooo (soft-like), when he looks right you say noooo, when he looks straight out (assuming you've lined up correctly) you say yesssss. All are cues-not commands. You send your dog on a release command (fetch-his name-bring it-shazammm-whatever) and he can still lie and run right or left, but you can correct honestly and convey understanding. On a blind retrieve you cue with dead bird or some other thing and then do the rest.
I taught fuss with food. Whenever I moved a treat came for finding food. I faded the treat with a tug and throw-then forward motion. Getting in fuss meant action-something would happen. I don't teach heads up attention like you'll want for Sch I 'cause it's not practically useful, but a tug on a quick release hanging from your neck works great.
When you have all this and add the pinch, you need to behave erratically-spin, back up turn left-right-about-and let the pinch speed up the dogs response (avoid pressure) by behaving as trained (the way out). You want the dog to always be successful. Koehler talks a lot about setting the dog up to fail, which is great if:
1) the dog understands the way out
2) the dog is developmentally ready to make decisions
3) Your timing is perfect
If all these criteria are not present, make it doable. This builds confidence (in you and in the dog's ability) and cooperation. Don't take anything out of the dog that you can't put back and you'll do no harm.
IMHO-Dave in NYC
Since you've started to read Koehler, a coupla ideas:
Although I really admire and utilize Koehler for his systematic approach, his strategy of forcing the dog into decision making can backfire, so be watchful and flexible. He's at his best on distraction training and the force fetch. The hidden dowel blind as a go out can backfire. The pressure drop can create unneeded resistance.
Remember that Koehler called the pinch/prong collar a "finishing" tool. I use mine with my hands (and the collar) locked at my belt buckle so that the dog administers his own corrections. I NEVER use it until the dog clearly and completely understands body position. You have no need for a dog who avoids discomfort; you need a dog who understands that his head should be next to your knee. Don't inadvertently teach some behavior that you'll spend months unteaching.
Don't be afraid to lure into position. My advice is always the advice of a fool, but I think the business of gooood fuss is bogus. You need to mark correct behavior and fix incorrect. You need to decide how much successive approximation you'll mark as right for this session. Picking up on Maugh's reference to marking behavior I'll give you an example:
When we bring a retriever to the "line" to mark he needs to look out. A dog with "look up" attention needs another cue. If you tell the dog to "mark" and he looks out you watch his head. When he looks left, you say noooo (soft-like), when he looks right you say noooo, when he looks straight out (assuming you've lined up correctly) you say yesssss. All are cues-not commands. You send your dog on a release command (fetch-his name-bring it-shazammm-whatever) and he can still lie and run right or left, but you can correct honestly and convey understanding. On a blind retrieve you cue with dead bird or some other thing and then do the rest.
I taught fuss with food. Whenever I moved a treat came for finding food. I faded the treat with a tug and throw-then forward motion. Getting in fuss meant action-something would happen. I don't teach heads up attention like you'll want for Sch I 'cause it's not practically useful, but a tug on a quick release hanging from your neck works great.
When you have all this and add the pinch, you need to behave erratically-spin, back up turn left-right-about-and let the pinch speed up the dogs response (avoid pressure) by behaving as trained (the way out). You want the dog to always be successful. Koehler talks a lot about setting the dog up to fail, which is great if:
1) the dog understands the way out
2) the dog is developmentally ready to make decisions
3) Your timing is perfect
If all these criteria are not present, make it doable. This builds confidence (in you and in the dog's ability) and cooperation. Don't take anything out of the dog that you can't put back and you'll do no harm.
IMHO-Dave in NYC
And congrats on the bite!